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botswana

Botswana

The Wallet's Safari: Lost and Found in Botswana

In 2008, I was browsing a quirky Los Angeles shop, its walls a testament to Hollywood's bygone era, when I found it—a replica of Jules Winnfield's wallet from 'Pulp Fiction,' famously inscribed with 'Bad Mother F*'. I remember thinking it wasn't just a wallet; it was a statement. Little did I know, this wallet would go on to have more adventures than many could claim in a lifetime.

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The first time it went missing was on the flight back from that LA trip to Belgium. It traveled without me for a month before we reunited, lighter in cash but with its contents otherwise intact. The second disappearance was in the hustle and bustle of Bangkok in 2012, vanishing from my hostel only to resurface while I was cycling through Japan. This time, inexplicably, not a single bill was missing when it was returned.

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In 2015, after a somewhat underwhelming safari experience in Kenya, I found myself drawn to the wild allure of Botswana upon the recommendation of fellow travelers. They promised an affordable yet equally thrilling safari in Mokolodi Nature Reserve. A wildlife sanctuary only a stone's throw away from Gaborone, where rare and vulnerable species thrived, and one could witness the majesty of the southern white rhinoceros.

I snagged the rear seat on the safari truck, my eyes eagerly taking in the splendor of giraffes and zebras, the raw power of hippos, and the elusive grace of leopards. Yet, despite the visual feast, the rhinos shyly remained out of sight.

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The day was waning when I returned to the city for a cup of the local coffee, a small reward after the dusty trails. It was then that the familiar feeling of loss washed over me—my wallet was gone. After a frantic search in the rental car revealed nothing, I was certain it must've been left at the park's ticket counter.

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Back at Mokolodi, the reception was lukewarm at first, but my persistence stirred them into action. As I was contemplating the bothersome task of canceling cards and replacing documents, the tour guides returned from the last trail with no sign of the wallet.

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I must've been a sight, with my forlorn expression and the slowly setting sun casting long shadows, for they offered me another tour—this time a private one. In my preoccupation with the wallet, the experience was bittersweet until a trio of rhinos appeared, magnificent and unfazed by our presence. Their sheer size and the gentle huffing sounds they made captured all of my attention; for a brief moment, the wallet didn't matter.

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After leaving the rhinos behind, we entered an area known for its mischievous monkeys. "Perhaps they fancied your wallet," the driver half-joked. The very thought was enough to dampen my spirits further.

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But then, as if by some miracle, there it was. In the middle of the dusty path lay my 'Bad Mother F*' wallet, looking a bit more worn but otherwise intact. The cheers from the guides were genuine; they seemed as invested in the return of the wallet as I was.

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Back at the reserve entrance, gratitude overwhelmed me. The guides, humble and steadfast, refused any monetary reward. So, in lieu of payment, I asked for a photograph with them—a memento of the incredible kindness and the shared joy of a wallet that had journeyed more extensively than most could dream of.

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The snapshot captured more than just smiling faces; it encapsulated the spirit of human connection, the beauty of Botswana's wildlife, and the unforgettable safari that reunited a traveler with his treasured possession once again.

September 2015

Moments

Did you know

  1. Zebra Crossing: Botswana’s national animal is the zebra, and it even has a national park dedicated to zebras—The Makgadikgadi Pans National Park, where zebras migrate in tens of thousands, creating one of Africa’s most spectacular sights.

  2. Salt Pans from Space: The Makgadikgadi Pan is one of the largest salt flats in the world and can be seen from space. It is the bed of an ancient lake that dried up thousands of years ago.

  3. No Time Wasted in Queues: Botswana has a population of around 2.3 million people. With such a low population density, there's plenty of space for everyone—no long queues for attractions!

  4. A Star’s Name: Botswana has a town with probably the longest single-word name: MmaRamotswe. Fans of The No. 1 Ladies' Detective Agency series by Alexander McCall Smith might recognize this as the surname of the protagonist, Precious Ramotswe.

  5. Dancing in the Rain: Rain is scarce and precious in Botswana, and the first rain of the season is often celebrated with song and dance.

  6. Unique Delta: The Okavango Delta is the world's only inland delta and becomes a lush animal habitat during the seasonal floods—an exceptional natural phenomenon.

  7. Sunset Canoes: Traditional Mokoro canoes provide a silent and eco-friendly way to explore the Okavango Delta, often resulting in up-close animal encounters.

  8. Speaking Setswana: The national language is Setswana, and a simple 'Dumela mma' (Hello ma'am) or 'Dumela rra' (Hello sir) can go a long way in making friends with the locals.

  9. Stable Democracy: Botswana is known for having one of the most stable democratic systems in Africa. Since gaining independence from Britain in 1966, it has maintained a consistent record of uninterrupted democratic elections.

  10. Economic Growth: Once one of the poorest countries in the world, Botswana has transformed itself into one of the fastest-growing economies globally, largely due to diamond mining.

  11. Conservation Efforts: Botswana is a global leader in wildlife conservation and is home to the world’s largest elephant population. It has also taken significant steps to combat poaching and protect endangered species.

  12. HIV/AIDS Programs: The country has one of the most advanced HIV/AIDS treatment programs in Africa and provides free antiretroviral treatment to its citizens.

  13. Education Investment: Botswana invests a significant portion of its budget into education, resulting in a literacy rate of around 87%, one of the highest in Africa.

 

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